An undercurrent of mystery flows through Vietnam, and I’d bet this has always been so. Vietnam has been living in peace for less than half a century. Walking around here, it’s hard to believe how much violence took place here. There is just as much of a “lets get on with it’ sense of determination and resolve. The day to day is very lively! The people, they’re really making the most of their surroundings.
Geography:
-In the continent of Asia
-Located in the peninsula known as Indochina/Mainland Southeast Asia (along with Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, Thailand and the western portion of Malaysia)
-The geography of Vietnam is long and narrow, spanning the entirety of the peninsula from north to south. On the map it actually looks like the letter S
-The eastern coastline is 1600 km long, and the total land mass is 329 247 square kilometers
-The pacific ocean/south china sea runs along its eastern shore, while the Indian ocean lies below to the south
Landscape:
Vietnam has a wide variety of terrain! The country is made up of 57 provinces
-An entire coastal border with many beaches
-Many port cities and fishing villages along the coast
-The mountain range of Cordilera rise over most of the western side of the country.
-Limestone karsts, which are hills that rise up out of the rice fields. These lie mid-way up the country in a province called Ninh Binh. This makes for quite dramatic scenery
-The tallest peak in Vietnam is Mount Fansipan, also known as the ‘Roof of Indochina.’ This mountain lies in the north in Sa Pa, which is in the Lao Cai province of Vietnam, near the border of China
-Thick jungle, as rainforests spread across a massive portion of the country
-Big crowded cities growing vertically, tiny villages among miles upon miles of rice fields
Vietnam has four major rivers:
The Mekong, The Red, The Ma and The Perfume.
The Mekong is in the south and the Red in the north, and both end in the South China Sea, in huge swampy plains called deltas.
The Mekong and Red Deltas:
These regions are home to most of the population, as they provide fertile ground to grow rice and lots of other crops. Most of the population in Vietnam make a living in agriculture, farming and fishing. There are many floating villages here in these deltas. A floating village is made of an extended family or two, tied together as communities, both physically and through elements of their day to day lives, their culture and of course their history. There are also floating markets! People sell food and anything else you might need right on the river. Anything you can’t find, there are others floating up to the villages in boats. Get a bowl of noodles with fresh seafood served to you piping hot from a lady slinging out bowls from her long boat. Delicious. You don’t want to pass up the opportunity to get some noodles whenever you can here (which is often!), each bowl its own unique take on a traditional recipe, with a regional or familial flair. the broths have as much depth as the history. I can’t even pretend I won’t do a whole post on the food here, because it is delicious and incredibly unique.
Both Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon) and Hanoi, the capital, are densely populated cities that are absolutely bustling with people and of course motorbikes. The smaller cities and countrysides are a lot calmer. The countryside is sparsely populated, checkered with little villages among river deltas and rice fields.
The southern part of the country lies in tropical climate zone, while the north has a temperate one. The country experiences two seasons: monsoon season with heavy rainfall from May through October and dry season from November to April. The temperatures stay hot all year round in the south, but drop a little in the north during winter, especially at night. The very north experiences some snow in the mountains in January.
The People:
The population sits just over 99 and a half million people as of 2023. Vietnam is the 15th most populated country in the world. That’s a lot of people… Canada has 38 million people and is 30 times bigger in land mass, just to throw in some perspective. The official language is Vietnamese, but there are 54 recognized ethnic groups with their own languages and dialects. The traditions and culture of the Vietnamese people is very unique and runs deep through a rich history of their own, but also heavily inflienced by China and France, and Japanese hues, all coming from occupations and migrations of the past, emperors, war commanders, traders, and artesons making their mark through the centuries. But Vietnam has always held onto their sense of identity, and it’s very apparent when you visit and take a look around.
The History:
Archaeologists link the beginning of civilization in Vietnam to late Neolithic and early Bronze Age periods. We’re talking 2000-1400 BC and a culture referred to as Phung-Nguyen, names that mark a distinct Vietnamese root. By 1200 BC, wet rice cultivation and bronze casting of tools, weapons and drums in the Red River Delta mark a distinct southeast Asian influence on culture and traditions. In Vietnamese mythology, Hung Vuong is the first ruler. Great influences of the neighbouring empires influenced Vietnam in these times, as a country uniquely located on the far east of the Indochina peninsula.
Rule of the Chinese Dynasties:
A dynasty is a series of rulers from the same family, or refers to the period of time of that rule. Vietnam was under a Chinese Dynastic rule for more than a thousand years: from 111 BC through 938 AD. The dynasties had an absolute monarchy; the emperor had unquestioned, unregulated, and unchallenged authority. Imperial China was a violent time and this violence ensnared Vietnam for centuries.
The Chinese occupation grew from a hunger to control and dominate the Red River Delta, a geographical area and rich trade route. Trade with countries like India, the Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia) and the Roman Empire had huge opportunities for profit. Vietnam was rich in resources, and China paved the way to export these: Constructing roads, waterways, harbors, improving agriculture and irrigation techniques like the terraced rice fields; they brought tools and weapons over, pottery, and mining techniques. Its no wonder humans have brought about and sped up the destruction of the planet. These places were rich for millions of years, and within just a few thousand years of human presence, are massively depleted.
The Chinese also brought with them a written language, sophisticated administration and higher education plans. Many of these Chinese customs, political institutions, culture and language were adopted across the nation, nonetheless forcefully. But locally, the Vietnamese continued to live as they had for centuries, as the peasants remained under local rule. I think this is the key to never fully assimilating. Although much of the Chinese customs were violently imposed, the Vietnamese preserved their autonomy. The written language was imposed, but many Vietnamese rebelled by speaking in their native tongue amongst each other. They know who they are and are unwilling to waver. On the surface it may appear a certain way, one in which they endure. But it is undeniable that there was an alternate reality they hold fast to. You can’t help but notice this, even in the present day, walking around the cities. There is just something so unique about Vietnam. Its unlike anyplace I’ve ever been. I try to put it in words, but until you come here, it’s not readily translatable. There’s something powerful below the surface. Years of practice as an oppressed people builds an undeniable frequency of resilience.
Through the Chinese rule and beyond, the Vietnamese have lead rebellions against the dominating powers. The first rebellion against the Chinese was actually lead by WOMEN in 40 CE! (!!!)
The Trung Sisters:
Trung Trac was a noblewoman, whose husband, a tribal lord, had been executed by the Chinese. They weren’t having any of that, so they organized an uprising with tribal chiefs and armed followers and overthrew the Chinese strongholds. They became the queens of an independent Vietnam for three years until the Chinese regained control. There were three more rebellions and short periods of independence through the centuries. The women in Vietnam are incredibly hardworking and resilient! They are not treated as equals by any means here, but that doesn't stop them from charging forward in life and getting shit done. They hold life together for the people. It's apparent to anyone with their eyes open around here.
In 939 Vietnamese independence stuck. Establishing their own dynasty, they lost the Chinese name, Annon, and adopted the name, Dai Viet. The capital, Hanoi was established in the north, which is in the heart of the Red River Delta.
Meaning of a Name:
In Chinese written language, Annon means pacified south. Viet can mean either beyond or hatchet. And Dai translates to “Great”… “The Great Beyond”
The succession of Vietnamese Dynasties:
The fall of the Tang Dynasty signaled the beginning of the independence of Vietnam, at which time Vietnam established their own dynasty, the Ly Dynasty.
The Tran Dynasty came second, and is known for winning a great conflict with what we now know as Mongolia, under the name of the Yuan Dynasty at the time. Trang Hung Dao who was the commander of the Vietnamese forces of the time, is still celebrated as one of the greatest heroes of Vietnamese history. These two dynasties built the foundation of Vietnam as it is known today, framed like China but distinctly Vietnamese.
China invaded Vietnam again in the 5th century, and a wealthy landowner named Le Loi lead a rebellion, reclaimed Vietnam and established The Le Dynasty. They expanded southward and took control of the Champa Empire. These people were skilled mercantile workers who were driven into the Mekong Delta. The ruins of their empire can be seen in central Vietnam in My Son, Mui Nei and Da Nang.
Throughout the 12th and 13th centuries, the province of Vietnam clashed with different kingdoms of Indochina, such as the Islamic Champa to the south, and the Khmer (now Cambodia) to the west. There are influences from these kingdoms throughout Vietnam to this day, in architecture, food, religion and customs.
The next Dynasty, the Nguyen Dynasty of the 19th century came to power through civil conflict. The country became fractured into pieces, a new capital was constructed in Hue: a feudal capital known as the Imperial City. During the Nguyen rule, the name Viet Nam was adopted. It is a compound of Dai Viet and Annam, and illustrates the close ties to China that lurk in the undercurrent. Keep your friends close, but your enemies closer. It was during this time that French influence began to grow under the pretext of religious reform. (Christianity and Catholicism moving in) … This story shows up too often throughout history. Just as the French already occupied Vietnam’s neighbours to the west, Laos and Cambodia, they took control of Vietnam. The last Nguyen Emperor, Bao Dai formally abdicated his throne.
French Colonial Period:
France colonized Vietnam from 1860 until the beginning of WWII in 1939. The French were notably receptive to Chinese immigrants, as it provided an opportunity to stimulate trade and industry. During this time period, Vietnam saw a massive increase in population. Along with French customs, many Chinese customs and traditions spread throughout Vietnam.
The French divided Vietnam into three protectorates, Tonkin, Annam and Cochinchine. Resistance was brewing once again, and many notable Vietnamese writers published works during this time, carrying deep tones of freedom and solidarity. There were mass arrests that took place, locking away the revolutionaries. The Vietnamese used this to their advantage, spreading nationalist ideas and making plans for future resistance. Communism was introduced in Vietnam in the 1920s and 30s through Marxist-Lenism that crept down from Russia. Communism is defined as “a state in which good are owned in common, and available to all as needed; and the elimination of private property” (Merrium Webster). The Communist Party of Vietnam formed and lead by Ho Chi Minh, a man determined to bring independence and autonomy to Vietnam from a violent and oppressed history. But alas, the party was wiped out a few years later by the French, who executed many of Ho Chi Minh’s appointed leaders.
See a thorough definition of Communism here:
The one good thing I think the French should get credit for is bringing with them some very good cuisine. The baguette is very much a staple of Vietnamese food. The Bahn Mi is a baguette sandwich with pate, pickled veg, chili and cilantro. It is absolutely delicious and truly illustrates how history is embedded into the culture of a place. The baguette surrounds Vietnamese ingredients, inseparable pairing of aspects of each culture, coming together.
Japan’s rule:
During WWII, when France was occupied by Germany, Japan took the opportunity take Hanoi in 1940. A year later, they moved south, but woke the resting beast of the resistance that had been building through the French rule. The Nationalist and building Communist groups banded together under Ho Chi Minh, and formed Viet Minh. They destabilized the Japanese, and Ho Chi Minh declared Vietnam an independent nation once again. This took place in the famous Ba Dinh square in Hanoi.
You can see remnants from the wars and occupation in many forms throughout the country. the architecture is a major one. There are many colonial-style building the French built that still stand today. Many with cracking facade and fading paint. The colours are still beautiful, with pastel shades of yellow and pink. The window shutters closing on a long ago time. There are many Buddhist temples and palaces throughout the country, built by Chinese. Hue is an amazing ancient city; the Imperial City that remains still in almost perfect condition. Some of the temples are centuries old, standing tall; the place where the emperors made their powers known. This was a forbidden city, as the common people were not allowed to enter.
First Indochina War:
Ho Chi Minh’s forces vanquished the French rule in what is known as the first Indochina War. The north Vietnamese forces dug tunnels, mostly by hand through the southern geographical area of Cu Chi, north of Saigon. This extensive tunnel system gave them a great advantage in secret movements and attacks. By winning the decisive victory of Dien Bien Phu, the country was divided in two, through an international agreement. The Communist north was ruled by Ho Chi Minh and the Capitalist south was ruled by Ngo Dinh Diem.
Vietnam War/Second Indochina War:
Most people are aware of the second Indochina war, or known as the Vietnam War in the west, from (1960 to 1976) but don’t know what actually took place here. I’d bet the United States doesn’t fully understand to this day, and they were the ones up to their necks in Vietnam.
The second Indochina war started off as a civil dispute between Vietnam’s communist north and capitalist south, and ended up as a proxy war between the cold-war powers of the time. The United States backed the south in an aim to stop the spread of communism. Communist Russia and newly communist China supported Ho Chi Minh of the north, through both Indochina wars, with weapons, ammunition, military intelligence and troops. A local Vietnamese friend of mine described this relationship as a brotherhood: Russia and China are the older brothers and Vietnam is the younger (Big Brother is watching you.)
The war brought about some truly terrible and extremely violent years. The United States spent over 100 billion dollars in military costs. 2.7 million soldiers served in Vietnam and more than 58 thousand died. But it was the Vietnamese who suffered the highest casualty rates. 2.1 million North Vietnamese soldiers died in the war, and between 200 and 250 thousand south Vietnamese troops died. But more importantly, we’re not just talking about troops. Many, many civilians, children, women, entire villages were bombed or set on fire or taken on the ground. It is estimated that 2.1 million civilians lost their lives throughout the country during the war. Many atrocious things happened to a lot of people. In the name of what? Peace, power, money, control? Who is the victor?
The Vietnamese, on both sides used their environment to their advantage, but the guerrilla fighters of the north were specialized in rural warfare. They were creeping in the jungles, in the mountains, a terrain unfamiliar to their opponents, but one that they were born into. The Viet Cong expanded the Cu Chi tunnels, spanning over 250km from Saigon to the border of Cambodia.They could move about unseen, and launch surprise attacks, retreat to safety. Many families actually lived in dwellings below ground for the years of the war. US soldiers called tunnel rats were sent into the tunnels to hunt down troops and dismantle traps. The North Vietnamese had guerrilla fighters held up in the jungles. The US Military used chemical warfare in the form of pesticides and something known as Agent Orange, (reportedly dropping 20milliom gallons) which they dropped from helicopters to smoke out the fighters. Landscapes were brutally destroyed and the chemicals ended up making tons of people sick. It contained dioxide and contributed to cancer, birth defects and neurological problems reported by people from both Vietnam and the US after the war. Agent orange was also used to attempt to wipe out the opium poppies that grew and were contributing to heroin use during the war. Agent orange and other chemicals were actually produced by Monsanto and Dow Chemicals ... who now produce the chemicals herbicides and pesticides our food is sprayed with. Just another one of the long line of atrocities committed in the name of war.
The neighbouring countries of Indochina were greatly affected. Cambodia was neutral, but allowed the north Vietnamese communist forces across the border, and drew heavy US bombing as well. Cambodia lost tens of thousands of lives. In Laos, the people suffered immensely through this conflict. The North Vietnamese armies moved troops and supplies through here, and to dominate a communist insurgency against the royalist government in Laos lead my Prince Souvanna Phouma. He created an army of communists in the Hmong north people, and called them the junior partners. In response these moves by the Vietcong, the US army dropped billions of pounds of bombs on Laos. This has made Laos, per capita, the most heavily bombed nation in the world. There have been more bombs dropped here than on France and Germany in WWII combined. Over 50 thousand people lost their lives here. More on this secret war in Laos and how it’s still going on today, deeply embedded in the drug trade. This history is not made accessible to many people, but its so important to learn about.
This was a war largely enmeshed with propaganda, as media sources became more advanced at this time in history. The war efforts were portrayed with particular narratives through posters, radio broadcasting, and television. This was also a turning point for news and information reporting to be used in revolutionary ways. Mass protests took place in the US against the atrocities of the US involvement in Vietnam, as learned about though these media outlets.
The Tet Offensive is the name of the final mass attack by the Viet Cong, that initiated their final victory. The United States armed forces withdrew from Saigon in 1975 due to many lost in this battle, and the pressure put on by the protests at home. Saigon fell to the North and was renamed Ho Chi Minh City after the unrelenting leader of the communist forces. The US army retreated without victory. Drug use was at an epidemic level and increased amounts of opium and heroin had entered the US in this time period. What was this all for? How many lives were lost in the name of violence and power?
Sino-Vietnamese War:
You may have thought the Vietnam war might have been the end of the violence that the people of Vietnam were subjects of. But alas, what took place next was more brutality. In what is known as the Sino-Vietnemese War, The Chinese army invaded North Vietnam in February 17, 1979. the reason this war took place was because Vietnam had launched an offensive against the Khmer Rouge, a Communist regime in Cambodia, who were backed by Chinese forces. The Kmher Rouge was a “fanatical fundamentalist Maoist Regime” who committed a mass genocide of their own people. Over 2 million people were brutally killed. I spent time in Cambodia six years ago and learned about these massacres. That’s for another time, if you care to hear about or discuss it. Vietnam invaded Cambodia in 1978 and brought down the Khmer Rouge, putting an end to the genocide and the dark empire. Another piece of history that remains unknown to many. And just so recent. The Vietnamese put an end to this, but they also influenced the communist movement that took place in Cambodia. These histories remain murky. The Sino-Chinese war China’s response to this. The war was punitive, so not massive in scale in comparison to previous wars that took place between the two countries. It only lasted a few months, until China withdrew troops.
Read about the Khmer Rouge here:
There are many war museums to be visited in Vietnam, mostly in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. It's important to keep in mind if you're at an American or Vietnam museum or archival location. Propaganda still exists and it's important we remember to take our source of information into consideration. It's also important to remember how highly emotionally charged these locations can be. It's important to remember these historical events and to respect the artifacts and the people who took part in the events. So just remember that not all tourists are capable of this but at least they're making an effort to be there, and learn.
Current Governance in Vietnam:
Vietnam is officially known as the Socialist Republic of Vietnam; it is a communist state, with one governing party, The People’s Party. A sovereign state, but one whose government has supreme authority. The first in command is the General Secretary of the Communist Party of Vietnam. This National Assembly chooses the President as Head of State, who also commands the armed forces, while an appointed Prime Minister runs the government. The current president is Vo Van Thuong, and the prime minister is Pham Minh Chinh, appointed just recently on March 2, 2023.
People can vote for a President, but all the local officials are chosen by the Party.The people in power have held multiple positions in power. Power is hazy here in Vietnam, to say the least. Many people are disconnected from their government and the role of voting. There is a definite sense of distrust in the rights that people have. Many just adopt the notion of “we’re truly on our own.” Communism and Socialism, on paper are often very idealistic and certainly ideological. But often, there is a disconnect between the upper class and working class, with uneven distribution of wealth and resources. So the people living in the countryside end up on their own and face the challenges that come with that. I spent some time with locals here, and I will do my best to explain to you, their point of view in the entries that come next.
The state is working to decentralize the government through a recent 1992 amendment, and has made further efforts over the last five years. They have come a long way in their short period of independence, and the people hope to see further steps like the centrally-planned economy shifting to a market economy. Natural disasters are slowing this process down. Socio-economic development efforts need to be the main goal to meet the country’s industrialization and modernization.
Though Communism still rings true in this party motive: “The People’s council is a state power organ,in the locality representing the will, aspiration, and mastership/master right of the people.”
I think in reality, the local people of Vietnam govern themselves. The idea of communism here seemingly works on a more practical and utilitarian level anyways. There is a real sense of “learn by doing” and “let’s get on with it” attitude. I see this as I’m immersed in the day-to-day life, especially among the street markets. The people work together, as opposed to competing. Each one has their own craft, whether it be with a certain family recipe, putting together a meal, butchering meat, artfully brewing a coffee, they compliment their neighbour’s offerings, together painting the whole picture of that corner of the city. Often I would find street food stalls with ladies paired up, one serving drinks, one slinging bowls of noodle soup. Looks like they’re been at it for a lifetime, achieving success together. They’ve got the same motives and are working towards the same goals.
Religion:
Vietnam is a communist country, and because of this, it has no official religion. The people are free to worship if they desire to. Most of the population follow Buddhism, Confusionism and Taoism, or a combination of the “Three Teachings.” There are many temples and places of worship throughout the country that illustrate these belief systems and religious practices. There are family shrines in those who follow these three teachings, with pictures of relatives who have passed on. They burn incense and give offerings to their ancestors. Always wanting to make sure their ancestors eat first, and this takes place during the burning process.The prayers live through a calendar. Much of Vietnamese Buddhist culture is highly ordered and followed closely with great detail. The rules that they follow, concerning what to wear, what parts of the body to keep covered in certain places, how to position food ware, what can be eaten at certain times of the calendar. There seems of be an unending list of rules, so it’s best to consult a local if you want to learn, follow and respect the customs here. There is a definite beauty and allure to learning about these things and the discipline it takes to abide within this frame. I’ve learned that many people draw their strength and resilient spirit from their religious practices and belief systems. Drawing strength to overcome circumstances of great oppression and violence. Belief that there is something beyond this life to carry us through.
Christianity is also widely practiced
throughout Vietnam. It was first introduced by the French. Of course there are various other religions practiced here and different belief systems. There are many different ethnic groups, migrants and foreigners living here, and each have their own unique beliefs.
Final thoughts: There is always more to what meets the eye here in Vietnam. I’ve been thinking about this country since I spent a month here. I always knew I would come back; that thought was always in the back of my mind. I was just waiting for the right time. And this is it. Some truly unforgettable experiences are coming your way in the form of some more of my travel stories!!!
References and Further Reading:
Vietnam Constitution PDF:
Informative history lesson Emily!