Trang An, Ninh Binh
The last time I visited Vietnam, I heard about a place called Ninh Binh that is said to be pure magic by those who have been. But I heard about it too late, so I made sure to make it happen this time around.
Tang An is a particular town of significance in Vietnam’s province of Ninh Binh. Trang An is considered a Landscape Complex that’s inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as of 2014. The mixed cultural and natural property is home to only 14 thousand people, living in traditional villages, mostly families who are subsistence farmers, and the remaining land is uninhabited and protected as heritage sites, such as the ancient capital of Hoa Lu.
“Trang An is of global significance because as an outstanding humid-tropical tower-karst landscape in the final stages of geomorphic evolution.” UNESCO
The limestone massif is a unique geological topography of hundreds of limestone karsts, which don’t reach higher than 200 meters. These are jagged mountains that jet out of the ground, like the contours of great beasts of the earth.
You will also find many rice fields, and thick rainforests, home to a diverse range in species of flora and fauna. The colours contrast perfectly and pull on your senses like strings: grey mountains, dark green forest, lighter green and yellow paddies, light blue sky, dark blue/green water. These were always the colours I chose to draw our Earth with as a child.
There are caves at many different altitudes of these mountains, a portion underwater, that have some juicy archaeological finds. There is evidence of human activity over a continuous period of 30 thousand years, illustrating that the mountains were inhabited by seasonal hunter-gatherers who must have adapted to significant environmental and climate changes. These inhabitants survived the most turbulent conditions in the history of the planet, such as repeated submergence of the landscape due to changing sea levels. The caves connect the land on a subterranean level and demonstrate the adaptability of humankind. You can see erosion notches in clifs and marine shell layers through the karsts. “The extensive cultural history is inextricably interwoven with the late Pleistocene and Holocene geological development of the Trang An limestone massif.” This unique landscape evolved over five million years, and it’s quite apparent spending time here how insignificant my own lifetime is in comparison.
This must be the Place
I feel close to God here, whoever oThe mountains are greater than me, than human existence. Their shapes are endless in variation. Each one is like a face and the earth has many. The contours are so interesting. I could stare at them forever. The sun burns hot and heavy in the sky above the mountains. The temples here fit in just right, nestled between the hills, set into the rice paddies like they were born together. Everything fits here, and I don’t think its changed in hundreds of years.
So here we are, arriving on a bus from Hue. I transfer to a second bus in the city of Ninh Binh, that takes me straight to where I need to be. I booked a place right next to a farming portion in the heart of Trang An. It's called Trang An Freedom Hood :) They have a little restaurant here with local eats and I'm stoked on all the meals I try. So I arrived in the early afternoon, and was feeling very tired, so I decided to give myself the sleep I needed to keep my body and mind in a good place, determined not to burn myself out again. Nice private room and comfy bed (23cad breakie included).
I wake up around 6 when the sun was just starting to sit low in the sky, heavy with the day and ready to set. Just out front of the guesthouse, there is a dirt road that leads into the village. I get outside and start to wander down the path into the paddies. What an incredible sight!! I can barely put in words how I felt walking around here. I pass a little shrine just off the path, sitting in a little carving of the mountain. Many incense sticks burn, protected from the elements and sending messages to ghosts. I follow the path past ponds with lillies and lotus flowers, closed up for the night. Just as the farmers take part in their evening tendings of their crops and farms, closing off their day before going to rest. Village dogs run together to and fro, a little curious but mostly disinterested in my presence. The sun traces along behind those hills, following along with my gaze and my gait. We are at peace and we are one.
I come upon a staircase leading up a mountain side, might as well be leading to heaven. There are intricately carved giant birds at the base, definitely Buddhist mythical creatures. What else to do but to ascend. I come upon a landing with a small Buddhist temple with candles and incense sticks, blessings to the beings that once were. There is a little cave carved out with another shrine. There are trees growing out of this landing, rooted elaborately with their environment. How old are these trees? How old are these mountains? I take a perch on the top of the stairs and meditate on what I’m most grateful for: my health, my family, this sunset, this moment.
Back to the path. I keep moving along. I find a bridge that crosses a little river flowing through the fields. I cross it and pass the backyards of a row of homes. A patchwork of village life: clothes hanging to dry, all shapes and sizes. Cute little potted plants and fountains. Tiny shrines, tables. Humble homes. I could walk along this path forever. The sun is nearly set once I reach the main road at the end. I decide to trace my steps back to the guesthouse. Everything looks different when you go back; you see more in hindsight. The silhouette of the mountains is absolutely breathtaking at dusk, their reflection passionately revealing itself in the ponds of water. I hear the trill of the insects and the birds calling out to the night and to each other. An occasional motorbike or bicycle slip by, taking their time along the path. It’s pretty dark and I find the first shrine in the clearing. I take a knee and an indeterminate amount of time passes as I do a kneeling meditation.
The Next Day:
I wake at the crack of dawn, feeling rested and rejuvenated. Eat a banana pancake, which is the specialty breakfast of the hostels here. Rice flour crepe with fresh banana slices. My guesthouse loans me a bicycle and off I go. A few km away, there is a dock where they have eco-tours down the Sao Khe River. I want to make note of the tourists I ran into here. There were many Vietnamese people touring their own country. This is a positive thing. Many were not able to do for many years through the war times and the communist regime. Many were too poor, there was too much violence, and they had to apply to travel interprovincially. Vietnam has opened up over the past forty years and things are beginning to change (very slowly); this is a sign of that change. And this is why I came very early, because Vietnamese people make a huge show of it, and arrive in very large and noisy groups. Who can blame them? It’s in their nature. There were a few other tourists but we were outnumbered for once, a nice change. I took my tour with a young Vietnamese couple, maybe 20 years old.
A strong Vietnamese local woman is our captain, who paddles us down the river to explore the wetland. There are Buddhist temples immersed right in these mountains and forests. They are a masterpieces of Chinese Buddhist design and architecture. The shapes of the roofs mimic the curves of the mountains and the branches of the trees in their surroundings. Everything fits together. We docked at each site, and spent 20-30 minutes exploring the temples and their surroundings. The shrines within are extravagant: colours of gold, red, black, blue, yellow: the elemental tones. I felt like royalty as I walked through barefoot with the others. Alms are burning for the ancestors of ancient times. We kneel facing the Buddha, and touch our forehead to the lushly carpeted floor. Whispers of prayers, hopes, wishes, gratitude.
We carried on down river through a number of caves with limestone deposits down like fangs, often having to duck down to our knees. It started pouring right as we docked and set a somber mood on the day. Something about the rain in Vietnam, it is engrossing and powerful. Everything is twice as green and intense. I found a coffee shop and ordered a coconut coffee and waited it out before getting back on my bike. I continued on my sightseeing of the historical spots, fully drawn into this ancient narrative.
Hoa Lu is where the state and the first capital of Vietnam was born after so many years under dominance by the Chinese. The imperial city and ancient capital of Hoa Lu dates back to the 10th century, built here under the rule of King Dinh Bo, the ruler of the Dinh Dynasty., who overthrew eleven warlords and reunified Vietnam as a state independent to China. Though in power a short time of ten years, he made a huge impact in organization of the state, eliminating social and political anarchy and followed a Chinese model, electing Buddhist and Taoist monks into administrative roles.
The complex landscape stood as defense against attacks from invading armies who were not familiar with the intricacies that the Vietnamese knew well and used to their advantage. There are 47 historical sites here: temples, tombs, and homes. I wandered through them, contained within walls, with classic feudal architecture. The ruins are quite a sight, with the trees and roots reclaiming the landscape. Many other sites in Vietnam were ruined by the many wars, so this is a unique spot to see, with only the natural world doing its thing.
I have no shortage of places to bike, I spend the rest of the day exploring. Along fields, through villages, past many temples. I never tire of seeing these places. There are lots of goats roaming and nibbling at the greenery. And there are also many goat less alive and on display at the tiny markets. At least they have a happy life.
The Tam Coc-Bich Dong Grotto is another protected area of UNESCO. I biked here on my last day and very much enjoyed it. The bike ride thete in the early morning is as peaceful as it gets, and steered me into an area I hasn't yet explored. More locals and little markets along the way.
There are two 11th century Buddhist temples situated at the peak of a limestone karst. The stairway of 1000 steps up is quite challenging and no less rewarding. I arrived early to beat the crowd, and got to make the ascent alongside only a few other Vietnamese tourists. There is a giant statue of a dragon at the peak that curls between the karst’s unique curves and points. You can climb out and sit on a peak and take in the world below.
I meet two young guys out here; we chat and they ask to take a selfie with me. After they descend I'm on my own with the dragon. That's how it always is and here is a place where it is okay and peaceful. It is an overcast day so the mood is undeniably gloomy but I couldn't be more content with this moment. Content and at peace with myself and where I'm going. It's not hard to imagine how things may have been centuries ago. I have great respect for our planet and those that have lived in harmony with it through the ages. I aspire to always do the same.
I make my descent as the people start to swarm in. I stop at one of the local markets on the way back and you guessed it… I find a dragon fruit… it’s the white kind! But still tasty. I head back to the guesthouse and pack up my things. I’m catching a night bus to Sapa tonight, so I check out and decide to head into the city a couple hours early to take a peak around. Ninh Binh is also the name of this city, the capital of Ninh Binh province. Motorbike taxi into the backpacker corner of town, near the ticket offices where I catch my bus. I check in, and take a walk outside. There are trailers lit up in neon along the river bank blaring electronic music out of shitty speakers. Signs out front advertising 2 for 1 cocktails. Nothing I wouldn't expect from Vietnam, but I'm very glad I stayed in Trang An. I beeline it to a restaurant nearby that looks inviting. Now let me confess to something. In a moment of curiosity and maybe a little weakness ... I see pizza on the menu, and I order a veggie one. I just wanted to see what it was like and I miss pizza from home!!! (The catherwood, anyone?!) let's just say it was not the same and I won't be ordering pizza again in Vietnam. Hahaha
Anyway, I head to the bus station, and I'm ready for my next stop: Sa Pa ... it's near the border of China way up north in the mountains. It's a mystical place and I'll tell you why in my next post!!! Bye for now :)
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