Bali
- Emily Hoey
- Mar 26, 2023
- 15 min read
“What you seek is seeking you”
-Rumi
Bali has many faces. Interpret that as you may and illustrate my point. You must come here to find the meaning.
Bali is an island of Indonesia, the westernmost of the Lesser Sunda Islands; the Indian ocean to its south and the pacific to its north. At 5 780 square km, it takes about three hours to drive across, so its not huge, but its definitely substantial. This is a place in which you will find a wide array of landscapes and lifestyles. This island has been dubbed, “The Land of the Gods,” and the meaning of that also lies open to interpretation. There are many beaches, whether full of people, or hidden away and untouched; mountains and volcanoes reaching up into the skies; rice fields as green as you can imagine, some spanning as far as the eye can see, others terraced up and down the hills; tropical rain forests full of ancient trees; many ornate Hindu temples, tiny and massive; ancient little villages; city strips with trendy vibes, hidden underground scenes... thousands of people visit every year from all over the world. Some of these people never leave.
I can’t lie, I definitely had some reservations about visiting Bali, as my approach to travelling doesn’t exactly mesh with mainstream tourism. A long-time friend of mine from Toronto, Alfred, who I travel with often, had the bright idea to meet up here, after his Australian music tour. He knew I was planning a trip to Southeast Asia, so he suggested starting in Indonesia with him. As many of you know, I had my sights set on India to begin with, but I had trouble getting my visa. Now that the borders have opened again (after the pandemic lockdown, you must go to the consulate in person, very long wait times), so I decided India wasn’t in the cards for the moment. After some research, I discovered that there will be elements of Indian culture and traditions here in Bali. Balinese Hinduism has strong roots that grew from India. I was compelled to visit for these reasons and to be able to spend time with Alfred. And I can now say with confidence that I’ve opened my mind up to Bali for a number of reasons. I definitely still think its a place that totally caters to western tourism; but there is so much more. The culture here is breathtaking and I fell in love once I uncovered it in my own way.
Denpasar:
I flew into Bali after four nights in Balikpapan, taking the time in transit to learn some Balinese (the language spoken here). It’s safe to say these two places are at opposite ends of the spectrum with tourism. The first thing I noticed here in Bali is that everything is in English, and very accessible to tourists. I didn’t expect anything less and it did make things easier. I spent my first two nights in Kuta, an area within the capital city of Denpasar, in the south western part of the island, and pretty much the main tourist area. I stayed in a nice little guesthouse (18cad/night), that was on a side-street down an alley, so I was happy with that choice. Food was way more affordable and authentic around here, off the strip. Two nights was enough to look around. Wandering north from Kuta, I found Seminyak and Canggu, which were more trendy, less touristy, more expats that seemed to be living here, and big party scene that comes with that. Strolling around, I found a vantage point at a bar with a good local band, acquainted myself with the local beer, the infamous Bintang, and took in the nightlife (people watching here is very entertaining). I wasn’t really in the headspace yet for meeting people; that would come later. I was still just processing the last week I spent in Jakarta and Balikpapan. I saw some waterfalls the next day, the typical Bali day which were no less beautiful and full of tourists than I imagined.
Ubud:
My next stop is Ubud, which is about halfway up the island, and a good central spot to be, to set off on some really nice adventures. My Airbnb, a little apartment this time (25 cad/night) was really close to the Monkey Forest, so I spent my first few hours exploring here (naturally). Here I caught a performance of the traditional Kecak, a Balinese Hindu dance (known in Balinese as tari kecakilolahhe). The Kecak dance or drama, tells the story of Ramayana: the prince Rama’s wife, Sita, is abducted by an ogre named Rahwana.
Much cooler vibes in Ubud. Getting acquainted with the scene on my first night, revealed a more artsy, foodie vibe: lots of nice restaurants and bars, shops and boutiques.
I’d say they cater to a digital nomads (people who work remotely while travelling) and ex-pat crowd (people who have moved here to work, mostly westerners) as well as tourists. The reason I say this is that everything is more expensive than all the places I’ve been in Indonesia so far. One thing I did notice here in Ubud, as well as in Denpasar, was a lack of locals hanging out; they were solely working the scene. This means they don’t dig it, or can’t afford the inflated prices. Either way, not that cool if you ask me. This is when my preconceived notions were on the cusp of becoming cemented about this place. I actually did find a really cool cocktail bar one night, called No Mas, that has live music every night with local bands. I met some really cool people here too… “A Swiss, a Filipino, a German, and an Estonian, and of course a Canadian all walk into a bar.” That’s the thing about Bali; there are people here from all over the world. People come here looking for something, and I guess you just need to decide what that something is. A party, a spiritual awakening, a trek. Its all here for hire. Taking all of this with a grain of salt, and trying to not be too salty about it… because once you get out of the centre, you really are in paradise.
Changing gears:
I switched to a homestay next, a little further away from the centre of Ubud, and I’m very happy I did. The family was so nice and welcoming. The homes in Bali are built in the same architectural style as the temples. They have outdoor courtyards enclosed inside ornate walls that stretch to the back of the house or property, and are partitioned into sections. The first section is a space to receive guests, then the kitchen and communal rooms, where food is prepared and eaten, and the bedrooms are beyond. There is always a family shrine and often a temple is built right into the courtyard. They had a beautiful little garden, lush with fruit trees. The grandparents were super friendly, sharing fruit as I came in, and there were a few Balinese dogs kicking around too. I just felt more plugged into my surroundings, being here with this family. Solo travelling is great, but its important to not isolate yourself for too long.
Ubud is close to many rice fields as well as the mountains and volcanoes, where you can do some solid trekking. Again, to reiterate from my last post, it is rainy/monsoon season, so it’s not the greatest time to trek, and it’s a hit or miss for the views. But Bali is not as wild and untamed as the Borneo rainforest, so I was ready to get into some of it either way. And it really is such an interesting and remarkable landscape!!
Freedom of the Open Road:
I rented a motorbike for a couple of days while at the homestay, and this marks a turning point for me on this trip. After being a little shell shocked from Jakarta and Balikpapan, I began to feel more comfortable and in control. Southeast Asian cities can be overwhelming, so it’s time to set out on some real adventures and immerse myself with the natural landscapes here. And there’s just such a strong sense of freedom when you’re ripping through the countryside on a bike, with so much green rushing by, passing through little towns with houses and shops, catching glimpses of people living lives in what seems like an alternate reality to my own. I love being able to take the side roads, these usually have the best places to discover. On a bike you have the freedom to stop where you want. It's absolutely brilliant finding little local markets and trying out some fruit or a local dish. Open air; open mind.
Pura Ulun Danu:
The first day on the bike I went to Pura Ulun Danu, a Hindu temple built in 1633, that took my breath away. It was a 45-minute ride from my place, which was quite the adventure. The temple is situated on Lake Beratin in the highlands of the Bedugal territory, near the top quarter of the island. The temple is breathtaking with a mountain range as a backdrop.
Notes on Balinese Hinduism:
Hinduism was brought to the island of Bali from India as early as the first century CE, and has mingled with the Animism long-practiced here. This belief system is steeped in traditions and rituals, illustrated in myths and stories. And most importantly, it centers on harmony with the earth and natural world. Balinese Hinduism is a sect that carries some Buddhist concepts, such as practicing a deep honor for the ancestors and the gods. And just as nature moves through seasons, Hinduism evolves with time. It is not a dogmatic religion, it seeks to respect the other and alternate ways, and always peaceful.
In Balinese culture, the Gods, spirits and ancestors occupy the top rung in a three-tiered universe. Spirits and gods live in swah, the upper world; humans live in bwah, the middle world, and demons live in bhur, the lower world. The offerings you see at the temples and doorways make offerings to those in the swah realm.
There are over 20 thousand temples here in Bali, (known as ‘pura’ in Balinese), and each place of worship is unique. The holiest religious sites are built in places corresponding to swah, like mountains or hills. Each temple is dedicated to a different god, concept or virtue. These are illustrated in statues, the shapes of the architecture, the number of levels in the peaks. It’s no coincidence that the holiest temple on the island is located at Bali’s highest peak, and the direction of this mountain serves as a geographical marker for holiness in Balinese culture. North and east are similarly associated with swah; Balinese orient their beds so their heads point in those directions. Taking this all in at Ulun Danu was very moving. This temple illustrates the rich history and spirituality here in the archipelago.
Balinese Hinduism is embedded with mythology. Each temple on the island illustrate mythos of the culture and religion, telling the stories of the gods, the people and the worlds.
Let me show you with Pura Ulun Danu:
The temple was built in adoration of the Goddess Danu.
Danu: lake (in Balinese)
The goddess Danu is queen of water, lakes and rivers.
The temple complex consists of four sacred buildings:
Linga Pura stands three levels high, and is a place of worship to the god Shiva
Pura Puncak Mangu stands 11 levels high, and was built in dedication to the god Vishnu
Pura Teratai Bang is the main temple
Pura Dalem Purwa is built in worship to Sang Hyang Widhi. This last temple is also a site for those who pray for fertility, prosperity and well-being
The style of the buildings follows the Trimurti belief; three holy colors to represent the three gods: Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. The first color is red, to the lord Brahma, The Creator. Second, is black. The symbol of the lord Vishnu, the balance and preserver of the universe. And white for the god Shiva, The Destroyer”
I’ve visited quite a few Hindu temples now and often they are blocked off from reaching the inside of the places of worship. I wonder if this is due to the tourists and the destruction that comes with them. It is best to appreciate some things from a distance and value their preservation. Especially when you consider these temples are hundreds of years old. I could sit next to a place like this for hours. So striking.
There’s nothing like motorbike traffic to balance out the calm that comes from visiting beautiful temples. You can really live a balanced lifestyle here on the island. Getting back to Ubud, the traffic was absolutely insane during the late afternoon rush. I will spare you (my mother is probably reading this) the details, but I made it in one piece. I parked and it was such a relief to leave the bike for the night. A little reset (cold shower and change of clothes) and off I wander to get some dinner (chicken sate!!!) on one of the little narrow streets.
Motorbike day 2:
The second day on the bike was a whole new adventure and a great one. I’ve had my eye on Mount Batur since looking around the map of Bali. It’s actually an active volcano that you can trek (obviously I had been scoping that idea out too). So I decided to go and get acquainted in person. I was not disappointed; it was love at first sight. What a beauty! It took me just under an hour to get here on the bike and what a ride it was. I found a vantage point up on a hill (read: small mountain in itself) next to Batur. You can actually wind your way down this hill to the lake, and get a look from below. I’ve never driven a bike on a more winding and steep hill like this, its a sharp learning curve, and it’s all good! Here I am, finding myself at the top again at a perfect little restaurant that overlooks Mt Batur and the rice fields and homes amomgst the hills that surround it. I’m the sole person here on the patio, traditional Balinese music floating out of the speakers and there’s nowhere else I’d rather be. The owner comes out to share some very nice conversation, mostly English, but a little bit Balinese as I work it out. We share our differences, our similarities and the changes we’ve seen since pandemic times. A lot of the conversation steers here when travelling now. He wanders back inside when a group of Russians appear and I’m left to my thoughts again. I’ve seen lots of Russians here in Bali so far. I’m hoping they can stay away from home and the turmoil for as long as it’s necessary. It reminds me of how lucky I am to be from Canada. I open my current novel, “Heart of Darkness” by Joseph Conrad, which matches the wilderness tones of my setting quite closely. Next up, I find the Volcano Museum and learn all about volcanoes, the history of eruptions in Indonesia, and UNESCO Global Geoparks. Nerd moment for sure. Volcanoes are out of this world and definitely a new point of interest in my life.
Some notes:
In short, a volcano is a rupture in the crust of a planetary-mass object, like the Earth! They allow lava, volcanic ash and gases to escape from a magma chamber below the surface. They are most often found where tectonic plates are overlapping or split. They are most commonly found underwater. I’ve always loved mountains, but volcanoes are a whole new ball park in their grandiose and significance to our planet.
For instance, just take this fact in:
Some volcanoes have eruptions that last for intervals as short as a few days or less, while others may have periods of activity that span expanses of time as great as a few million years.
What?! I can’t even begin to tell you all I’ve learned and have barely scratched the surface. The information is definitely beyond the scope of this post, but a good place to start reading are these links!
Indonesia is located on the Pacific Ring of Fire. This is a 40km path along the Pacific ocean with active volcanoes and earthquakes. 75% of the Earth’s volcanoes lie here.
According to the Smithsonian Institute’s Volcano database, Indonesia has 120 Holocene volcanoes and 96 Pleistocene volcanoes, the third highest in the world.
Check out the history of eruptions:
What is UNESCO?
United Nations Education, Scientific, and Cultural Organization
Its origins go back to World War II, when the governments of several European countries were motivated to create an alliance with goals in peace, education and sustainable development to be achieved once the war times were over. To this day there are now 46 countries involved with the aim to prevent another world war. There are now many UNESCO sites around the world that promote peace, education and culture.
What is A UNESCO Global Geopark?
“UNESCO Global Geoparks are single, unified geographical areas with sites and landscapes of international geological significance… A UNESCO Global Geopark uses its geological heritage, in connection with all other aspects of the area’s natural and cultural heritage, to enhance awareness and understanding of key issues facing society, such as using our earth’s resources sustainably, mitigating the effects of climate change and reducing natural hazard-related risks. By raising awareness … UNESCO Global Geoparks give local people a sense of pride in their region and strengthen their identification with the area. The creation of innovative local enterprises, new jobs and high quality training courses is stimulated as new sources of revenue are generated through geotourism, while the geological resources of the area are protected.”
Read all about it here:
Mt Batur:
1 717 meters above sea level
Active, meaning it is likely to erupt in the future
Last eruption: in 2000
Located at the centre of two calderas, which are craters formed by lava in previous eruptions that have filled with rainwater.
I was in love. So when I got back to Ubud I dropped off my bike and booked a sunrise trek for the next day. I got picked up at 2:30am and we started at 3:30am. It was wild to climb it in the dark. My tour group had two Germans, two Swedes, me and a local guide who was super rad. We started up a road and turned into a forest and then some climbed up the mountain zig-zagging back and forth with some giant steps straight up the rock terrain. It took us about two hours, but let me tell you that was not a walk in the park. As we all can agree now that this is the off season for trekking, the sunrise was just a slow fade from dark to light, but we were inside a cloud, so who could be mad at that? Still absolutely unbelievable. And the sun did come out on our trek back down, as we walked through the forest along the lava paths. Bali is actually immensely fertile as a result of the volcanic deposits that are enriched in elements like magnesium and potassium, which provide the soils with exactly what plants need to grow. Volcanic ash also acts as a natural fertilizer as well. We made our way past gardens on our hike down, and our guide picked some tomatoes and gave them to us. Delicious. One of the best sunrise experiences I’ve had!
Uluwatu:
Uluwatu lies at the southern tip of the island! Makes for some breathtaking coastal scenes!! Uluwatu is a world of its own. There is a different feel to it, it is more spread out and more natural than the tourist areas to its north. There is a more surfer, laid-back vibe here.
So I did some island hopping, and ended up in uluwatu right at the end of my month in Indonesia. I stayed in uluwatu for a couple nights and met some friends here who I met on another island. I stayed in a little villa, and had a day to myself before meeting my friends. My host rented me his motorbike for 5 bucks overnight. Made for some nice adventures!
The Uluwatu Hindi temple:
Very beautiful, and the scenery is quite dramatic! There is a walkway a few km along the coast from worship sites. Built in the 11th Century, this temple beautifully displays the ancient roots of the culture that is present here.
The monkeys here are treacherous... you seriously need to look out for them if you visit. Keep your glasses and anything like a phone etc locked away. There are locals here that bribe the monkeys with fruit to get people’s stuff back. The monkeys are adapted to the conditions of their environment. They want food. They were here first. They know what to do.
Later that night, it's time to meet my friend Nuria from Spain, so off I go on the motorbike to yet another villa, where her long-time friend (also originally from Spain) lives here in Uluwatu. They had tickets to Savaya, one of the most famous beach clubs in Bali, to see the Australian DJ, Fisher. Tickets were sold out, but one of their friends magically had an extra ticket for me. It was an great night, we had a really nice time. Her friend is a high roller who owns some resorts here, so we were just along for the ride of his extravagant party. Sometimes I don’t know how I find myself in these places but I’m definitely not complaining. The after-party was just as fun. I definitely wanted to experience some of the party scene of Bali and I certainly got my wish. (What you seek….)
The best part of this experience was actually the next day. Once we woke up and got some good food to reset ourselves… she took me with her to see her Balinese family who she has been visiting for the past ten years. Her friend had a baby during the pandemic lockdown who just turned 2, and this was the first time she was getting to meet her. Getting to come along was such a great experience. They live in a private little section of Sanur, which is on the east side of the island of Bali, and quite far away from the tourist areas. We got to hangout between two homes of her extended family and share a beautiful local meal in the garden. This is where I got to try the Babi Guling. And we got to share some local Indonesian rice wine (not for the faint of hear). Afterwards we went to the apartment of one of the sons and supported his budding tattoo artistry. Something to mark this time and place in my life, because it truly is something I’m grateful for. Pages are turning and life is unfolding into something new.
You know, Bali is Bali. It is what you want it to be. If you want to find some parties, you will definitely find them. The formula in self-healing and spirituality that you’ve read about on the internet or watched in Eat Pray Love, you will most definitely be able to find that here for hire. If you want to find some remote beaches, take your pick (next to many others taking their ‘pic’) and if you want to see a slice of local life, you can find that too, but you must have a way in. This has been a lesson in life that often comes after the fact, when you’re looking back on an experience. Bali has been a place of self-realization. What you seek is seeking you, so be ready when it finds you, and decide if you really want it after all.
I came to Bali with an air of “this is going to be exactly as I expect it to be” and left with a totally different outlook on how life operates. All in all it was nice to spend time on Bali and to get a vantage point from some of its surrounding islands. Lombok is next and I’ve got some great stories coming up for you.
Some Balinese Phrases:
Hello: om suastiastu
(be blessed by God)
Good Morning: Rahajeng semeng
Goodnight: Rahajeng wengi
Goodbye: Selamat jalan
Please: Tolong
Thank you: Makasi
Yes: Aa
No: Sing
Thanks for sharing your words Emily. You are a very gifted writer and we look forward to more. Safe travels. Ron and Doris
Love hearing of your adventures Emily! Take care and be safe on the rest of your journey Bev